Julia Moskin has conducted a brilliant and much needed study about the merits of cooking with cheap versus expensive wines (NYT). It’s a funny article and very well written:

“Next I braised duck legs in a nonvintage $5.99 tawny port that reminded me of long-abandoned Halloween candy, with hints of Skittles and off-brand caramels.”

Moskin is correct with her conclusions. It’s not necessary to cook with expensive drinking wines. Cheap table wines are fine for cooking.

We cooked with boxed Franzia wines at one of the fine kitchens where I spent my chef’s apprenticeship. These cheap wines were great for stocks, merinades, sauces, and deglazing. Often the taste of the wine is only sensible as a subtle acidic balance in flavor. With something so subtle, it turns out you can easily substitute a $6.00 bottle for a $36.00 bottle, and no one will notice the difference.

One other trick: leave the Franzia box in the walk-in and refill high class show bottles for use on the line. They’re easier to handle. Plus you never know when a customer will visit the back of the house.
[tags]Julia Moskin, cooking with wine[/tags]